Whenever the waves were up there would always be a few of us watching and discussing the pros and cons of the conditions. What time the tide would be the best, which direction the wind and swell were coming from and what was going to happen tomorrow. Of course, in true surfing style, someone would always bring up how good it was yesterday. Which in turn would invariably lead to surf tales, some true and some coloured to enhance the details.

The stories over the years became wide and varied and no matter which group there was gathered, whether on the beach at Pipeline, Hawaii, or standing under the tall Norfolk Pines in the park overlooking the point at Burleigh in Queensland, tales would arise of great adventures, some terrifying and others so inspiring that they made you want to go on a discovery of your own.

Every surfer I have ever met had a story or two that was worthy of telling, so I am contributing some of my tales which I hope will add to the creatation of a wealth of history and culture of our life and times.

These are some of the adventures I’ve had over the past 40 years. More recently venturing away from the awesome power of distant surf breaks like Samoa, or north west Africa, to experience the dry powder snow mountains of Hokkido in Japan.

Whenever an opportunity arose, I would pack my bags and camera and head off to wherever the Spirit of Adventure would lead. Always open to be bombarded with the experiences, sights and friendships that make us who we are.