Eat it, smoke it, surf it.

The hand mixed Japanese foam is a soft milky brown that goes a lighter shade when exposed to the light, opposite to a polyurethane blank.

Small bubbles in the hand mixed foam show up like freckles.

The fish shaped quad fin has inlaid abalone shell and cedar logo.

A little invention which I have been working on is a balsa fin plug support that spreads the load of the fins out onto the board and strengthens the plugs.

After a little investigation into fin plug damage (90% of all surfboard repairs, according to a local ding shop) I have been told that the styrene escaping from the resin creates a fine separation between the plug and the resin that is supposed to support them.

Coating the plug with a thin layer of laminating resin then allowing it to go off before they are inserted allows the styrene to escape from around the plastic, then when the plugs are inserted into into the balsa support plate, the bond is the strongest that I have been able to achieve for a plug system.

Advantages of the Fin Plug Support (FPS)

Separate 10 mm thick balsa base that allows the fin angles to be adjusted when inserted.

FPS is installed under glass. Strengthens and reduces movement of the fin plugs.

Spreads the load from the fins out onto the board connecting the power of the fins to the board for a better, crisper surfing feeling.

Due to the high / low rail design this board can be surfed upside down and back the front.

Remove the fin for the true Alaia slide.

6′9″ x 18″ Paulownia. On display at the studio at Miami.

Also have some Paulownia blanks available if you want to shape your own Alaia.

The easy way to find it is to Type in Richard Harvey Fish Fry in your You Tube search.

Batik fabric inlay into clear glass with yellow tint outside layers.

Rising Fist – Cedar and balsa laser cut solid timber glass-on single fin.  Even though timber fins have weight when on dry land, their buoyancy adds a lighter feel when in the water.

Cedar and balsa laser cut Hawaiian floral timber fin.

Solid glass box fin – hand cut out of palm tree with yellow tinted glitter  fill resin and red highlights.

Balsa rails, light concave vee and removable fin system.

First one sold after 3 days on the gallery floor. Next one same dimensions, different logos. Available in solid balsa with cedar stringers.

]]> http://www.harveysurf.com/news/the-new-performer/feed/ 0 http://www.harveysurf.com/uncategorized/bonzer-5/ http://www.harveysurf.com/uncategorized/bonzer-5/#comments Tue, 13 Apr 2010 00:01:59 +0000 Richard Harvey http://www.harveysurf.com/?p=1163 Just shaped a stringerless Bonzer 5. It’s going to have hardbond rails with some yellow tint bonzer fins and an unusual treatment to the timber single fin. Glassing the hardbond rails today and then will upload those pics. With all the talk about finless boards, I think a lot of the modern version are derived from the Campbell’s original Bonzer. Check their site at www.bonzer5.com

The first step is to glue the keel and the cross pieces together. Ensuring the bottom of the pieces are straight and aligned. Even though the pieces are computer cut and small adjustments can be made without difficulty, care is needed, as a twist in the internal frame will be carried throughout the finished board. More pics as I progress.

Have now laminated all the bottom planks together. The first centre planks were done with clamps and timber cross pieces that stop the planks springing up.But the last two side pieces were done separately. For those trying it this way they will save the expense of clamps and it was help in place with good old masking tape. The technique is to tape the join lengthways on the side you want to be the outside of the deck. This will then fold down when moved over the edge of the bench, opening up the join for glueing but still keeping the plank in place. Once the glue is applied it is then taped back into place as per the photo. I think all the planks can be done this way.

Takes more time but gets a cleaner result. Like the old saying “Cleanliness is next to Godliness”

Had a change of plan regarding the construction technique, originally, the kit said a rocker table was needed and a bunch of clamps, quite a lot of fussing around. I thought it could be put together with a much simpler method and no need for all those clamps, just some pins and a roll of masking tape. Using new narrower planks, 4 mm thick and glued individually as the wider slab of 6 mm thick timber wouldn’t bend, but the 4 mm thick done individually worked well. So here are some pics of the bottom deck being attached then the rails have been started. Also some fancy laser cut logo inserted into the centre stringer. Still a long way to go, but coming together without the need for all the extra gear.